Painting Walls Tips

I spent most of my April break painting the entire upstairs of my home, and while I was at it, I couldn’t help but think back to some of the first times I painted walls. They were streaky, patchy, and honestly a bit of a mess. But I’ve learned a lot since then, and I’m excited to share my favorite painting tips with you.

From the best primer for fresh drywall to what works on wood, plus my go-to brushes, rollers, and favorite paint finishes—it’s all here. I’m sharing it so you can skip the mistakes and jump straight to the good stuff.

Painting is so transformative. It’s also oddly therapeutic and super satisfying. So if you’re ready to refresh a space, here’s exactly how I do it.

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Just a quick heads-up: Everything in this post reflects my genuine opinions and recommendations, but it’s not a substitute for professional advice. To keep this content free, I use ads and include affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

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How To Paint A Wall

Step 1: Prep

Prep always takes longer than you think it will. I’ve learned that the hard way. But it truly sets the tone for how the rest of your project is going to go. So give yourself the time to do these things right.

Start by removing outlet covers. Keep everything together by putting the covers and screws in a small bag or container so you’re not scrambling later trying to remember where they went. I recently added this ratcheting screwdriver to my toolkit, and it’s such a simple thing, but I love it!

Next, fix any holes or dings. I like to use this spackle. Let it dry completely, then sand in small circular motions, focusing especially on the edges. You want the patch to blend seamlessly into the wall. Run your hand over the area—if it feels flush, you’re good to go.

Do not paint over un-sanded patches. Once you do, it’s there. Fixing it after the paint is on takes way more effort, so save yourself the hassle and take the time now.

Wipe down the walls. If you’re working with fresh drywall or have sanding dust from patching holes, use a clean cloth to pick up the fine dust. If you’re painting over already painted walls, clean the surface with a mix of Dawn and water. For extra dirty areas—think fingerprints, grease, and grime—use a cleaner like Krud Kutter first, then follow up with soapy water.

Protect your floors. I’ll be honest—I don’t always cover my floors, but every time I drip paint, I instantly regret it. So, do as I say, not as I do, and take a few extra minutes to throw something down. I like to use old sheets, usually picked up at the thrift store for a few bucks. Look for thicker material like flannel, and try to find flat king-size sheets—they work best!

Caulk any gaps where the walls meet trim. This step is time-consuming, but it gives a super clean, professional look. Just make sure you’re using paintable caulk. Don’t skip this and just glob paint in the cracks because it’ll crack and separate the second the weather changes. And yes, I’ve learned that the hard way.

Step 3: Painting Walls

Now that you’ve prepped everything and gathered all your supplies, let’s dive into my painting technique. First, give your paint a good shake, then stir it up and pour it into your tray so that it’s about halfway full. You want to leave enough space so when you roll your roller into it, it won’t spill over.

Next, take your roller and roll it in and out of the paint several times so that it’s fully saturated. Then, roll it across the ribbed area on the back of the tray a few times to remove any excess paint.

I pick a corner of the room and work either clockwise or counterclockwise around the room—no rhyme or reason to it, just whatever feels right! I also edge as I go, rather than edging the entire room and then going back to roll. Personally, I find it easier to do both at once. This way, I can catch drips or thicker edges that need smoothing out right away. Plus, it helps me keep track of what I’ve already painted!

One of the best things about this phase of my reno is that my trim isn’t attached, so there’s less cutting—at least for now. I’ll use my roller to get as close to the edges near the ceiling and floor as I can. Sometimes, I even have to flip the roller so the handle isn’t in the way, giving me that extra space to get as close as possible. Then, I go back in with my brush to handle the corners (see how to cut- in for that part).

When you load up your roller, make sure it’s a liberal amount of paint—not so much that it’s dripping off, but enough to cover the wall well. I like to work in 3-5 foot sections, starting with a big “M” shape across the wall. This helps spread the paint evenly.

As I roll, I keep an eye out for drips or thicker spots that need smoothing. I always start at the top, roll the middle third, then move to the bottom. Once one section is covered, I move to the next, making sure to overlap the edges each time. This overlapping helps blend the paint and prevents streaking.

A couple of things to note about painting:

• If you drip paint onto a surface you didn’t want to paint, wipe it away immediately with a damp rag. I keep a white, wet rag nearby for just this reason. It’s especially helpful if I get paint on the ceiling. Using a white towel means there’s no chance of dye rubbing off onto the paint. Trust me, it’s saved me more than once.
• Things go faster as you go! The first coat is the longest, but by the time you’re on your last coat, you’ll have shaved off 15 minutes or so.
• Don’t worry if things don’t look great after the primer. Each coat builds on itself, so just trust the process! Prime two coats, then paint two coats. Never less.

How To Cut-In

Cutting-in is when you use a paintbrush to go around the corners of the room. It helps get the paint into those tricky spots that the roller can’t reach and creates a clean line along the ceiling, trim, and corners.

Since I cut-in as I go, I start by painting the wall as you learned about earlier. As I get to a section that needs cutting-in, I grab my brush and load it up with paint. Starting at the top, I place the brush into the corner and work up and down the corner, reloading the brush with paint as needed. Then, I flip the brush so it’s flat against the wall and go up and down again to smooth out the paint where it meets the corner, making sure the edges are clean and blended.

Once that’s done, I switch back to my roller. I try not to overload it with paint, and I carefully roll as close to the corner or edge as I can, slightly overlapping the area I just painted with my brush. This helps blend the two, making sure the edges stay smooth.

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Painting Trim

Whether you paint your trim while it’s attached or off the wall—honestly, both ways kind of stink, ha! There’s no perfect method.

If your trim is on: You’ll want to tape off anything you don’t want painted—like the floor (especially if it’s carpet) and anywhere the trim meets the wall or ceiling. For carpeted floors, use a putty knife to help tuck the painter’s tape under the baseboard, pressing it down firmly to make sure it’s really in there.

When you’re done painting, ideally you’re peeling the painter’s tape off while the paint is still wet. But if you’re priming and painting and that’s not possible, just score along the edge of the tape with a sharp knife (I love this wallpaper X-Acto knife because it’s so sharp) before peeling. That’ll keep your paint from lifting off with the tape.

That said—I don’t really use painter’s tape all that often anymore. My little angled brush is so precise that I can cut in clean lines without it. My best advice? Just go slow and take your time!

Step 4: Clean Up

I’ve gotten a lot better about leaving time for clean up and now that I factor this into my project time, I’ve actually come to enjoy this part. Here’s how I handle my brushes and rollers and all the other stuff.

I always start by brushing the leftover paint back into the can. Then, I’ll let the liner dry out completely and reuse it a few times. Once it starts to crack or chunks begin coming off into the paint, it’s time to toss it. I’ll also use a fresh one if I’m painting two drastically different colors, like white and black—I don’t want any chance of those mixing and messing up the final color!

Storing Paint Brushes

If I’m planning to paint with the same primer or color soon, like tomorrow or within the week, I’ll keep my brush and roller. I wrap each one in foil, seal them in a plastic ziplock bag, and place them in the fridge. This keeps them fresh and ready to go for the next round!

Cleaning Paint Brushes

If I’m done with that color or I know I won’t be painting again anytime soon, I always rinse out my brush and roller right away—or at least as quickly as possible. I’ve found it’s okay if they’re out for a few hours while I’m working, but just keep an eye on them. You don’t want the paint to dry on them because once it does, the brush will get stiff, and the paint on the roller will harden, ultimately making them need to be tossed.

I loooove my slop sink for this part. I use warm water and a little Dawn dish soap. First, I rinse everything out and use my hands to squeeze out as much paint as I can. Then, I add the soap and keep rinsing until the water runs clear. It takes a little while, so don’t worry if it doesn’t happen right away—it’s working! Keep the roller attached to the handle for this.

To dry, I rest the brushes on top of my slop sink and hang the roller (still attached to the handle) over the edge. I position them in a way that makes sure the bristles and roller aren’t touching anything and get proper airflow to dry completely.

When to Toss Your Painting Supplies

I usually use my rollers for one room and then toss them. For example, I’ll do my two coats of primer and toss. Then, two coats of paint and toss again. This is usually for larger rooms like a living room or master bedroom. For smaller spaces, you can often get more use out of each roller. Some signs that it’s time to toss your roller are when you start getting a lot of chunks on the wall, or when things just aren’t going as smoothly. You’ll know when it’s time!

Brushes last longer, so I’ll wash and reuse them multiple times—basically until the bristles start looking frayed. If I’m working on a really detailed project that requires more precise cutting in or edging, I’ll opt for a fresh brush. I also apply the same rule about dark and light colors: if I’m switching between drastically different shades, I’ll go for a new brush to avoid any mixing or unwanted color transfer.

More to Explore

• How to choose the best warm white paint color that doesn’t pull yellow!
• How to DIY a Checkered Painted Floor: The Best Way to Achieve Stunning Results Without Tape!
• Hand Painted Wallpaper: A Quick and Inexpensive Brushstroke Accent Wall 
• Painting Kitchen Cabinets So They Never Chip!

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I hope these painting walls tips make the process smoother and more enjoyable! The more you do it, the more it makes sense, and the better you’ll get! Whether you’re a DIY pro or just starting out, don’t stress if it feels tricky at first, just keep going, and you’ll be amazed at how much easier it gets. Happy painting!

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